Allie-san in Japan: Toykyo
- aec41594
- Aug 5
- 8 min read
I spent about two weeks in Japan in May 2024, covering Tokyo, Nikko, Hakone/Gora, Kyoto, and Hokkaido over 13 days. Since there's SO much to do and recommend in each location, I'll break out each post into its own summary.
Japan was all that it was promised to be, and the way we organized our trip was a really nice mix and variety of city, history, nature, and the likes. I saw a meme that joked that every millennial is either ‘running a marathon, or going to Japan’. In my case, I chose Japan. And if you’re worried about seeming too ‘on trend’ - to that I say: Get over it. There’s a reason that everyone loves Japan when they visit, and if you can be one of the people who gets to experience it for yourself, you’re all the more better for it!
High level tips:
As expected, rail trains are pretty excellent in Japan. Travelers are advertised to use the JR pass, which is sold exclusively to foreign tourists visiting Japan, offering unlimited travel on JR trains for a set period (7, 14, or 21 days). It's a convenient and cost-effective way to travel throughout Japan by train, particularly on the Shinkansen bullet trains, but use the JR Pass calculator before deciding to purchase it. In my research, most travel blogs mention it so I was under the impression it was a no-brainer for tourists to get one, but with recent price hikes it turned out to be not financially worth it for us in the end. That being said, it was convenient to not have to book a specific train and just use the JR pass to come and go as we pleased for longer trips. Another downside is that JR is not the only operator of trips, so while the JR trips are usually the fastest options, having the JR pass limited us in terms of what time trains we wanted to take
On that note, Google maps was pretty easy to use and indicated which trains in the timetable were ‘JR’. In general, Google maps and the google app translator feature was amazing
Download the SUICA pass mobile on your phone which acts as a mobile debit card to pay for subways and buses, like tap-to-pay. We did this as soon as we landed at the airport and used it seamlessly to get onto the train from the airport
To add a card to your iPhone, go to the Wallet app and select “Add”. Select the “Transit Card” option. Choose either Suica or PASMO, then select “Continue”. Finally, enter in how much you want to charge your card, and then select “Add”. You will then be prompted to confirm your purchase, and that’s it.
Getting reservations in Japan can be difficult, so don’t be afraid to call or email and ask your hotel concierge to help book reservations for you.
Tokyo
Being from New York, we typically fly from JFK/EWR, but we started our trip after a family wedding in Palm Springs. As a result we flew from LAX, buying us a slightly shorter journey to Japan - 12 hours later we arrived in Tokyo (HND). Using our SUICA pass, we boarded the train towards our hotel, the The Okura Tokyo, where we’d be staying for the next 4 nights. This place is a landmark of modernist architecture and Japanese style. It opened in 1962 and became this symbol of Tokyo's post-war modernization and a hub for international guests - when my dad lived in Tokyo in the ‘80s, he told me he loved to go there when he was homesick for an American style breakfast! Staying there, so close to where my dad used to live, felt so special!
We landed around ~9PM Tokyo time, and were ready to get a bite to eat and hit the hay. We started the trip with our first of dozens of visits to 7-11 to grab a few snacks to hold us over. Onigiri pretty much fueled me for the entire trip as an excellent breakfast.
The next morning, to start our first real day, we visited the TSUKIJI FISH MARKET for breakfast, which was a delicious way to start the trip and knock a lot of foods on our bucket list off in the first go. Highlights were:
Grilled Wagyu Skewers with Uni at Tsukiji Teppan-yaki Jūjū
Strawberry Mochi Daifuku (filled with a sweet red bean paste)
Grilled scallops in a shell
Seafood bowl at TSUKIJIRO
Shopping at Uniqlo’s Flagship Store
After a very hearty and complete breakfast, we did some shopping. I really wanted to head to the flagship Uniqlo store in Ginza, which is 12 stories high and has a lot of cool features. I had purposely not packed a few key items in my bag so I could do some shopping. I DID buy the viral bag, even though I originally wasn't into it, but FOMO got to me and so I bought it. It was the best purchase of the trip, by far. PERFECT bag for traveling and fit a ton - water bottle, passport, rolled up raincoat, etc. Still using it in New York!
Arcade Games in Akihabara, Tokyo's electronics district
From Ginza, we took the subway to check out Kanda-jinja (Kanda-myojin) Shrine and stopped at by the electrifying chaos of Akihabara GiGO Akihabara Building 3 to play a few arcade games and DDR. This district is the absolute epicenter for electronics, anime, manga, and video games. It started as a post-war black market for radio parts - the energy is incredible, with themed cafes and shops around every corner. It's a total sensory overload in the perfect way to fight jet lag.
Right near Akihabara, we found a moment of peace at Kanda-jinja Shrine (Kanda-myojin). At Kanda shrine, we took a fortune for lovers and hung it along with others. Near Kanda-jinja was another shrine featuring a Statue of Confucius.
We then hopped back on the subway to Yakitori Alley for some lunch. Also known as Memory Lane or Piss Alley (don't let the name scare you!), this narrow street in Shinjuku is a step back in time. It emerged from a post-WWII black market and became this amazing spot for tiny yakitori restaurants. We arrived at an off time (like 3ish PM), so it was a little dead, but the jet lag was hitting and we needed some sustenance so we sat. We had a few language barrier stumbles, specifically when the waiter pointed to a page and said ‘Chicken’, so we ordered a skewer from that page, and then were surprised when a skewer of Eel arrived. Oops. Second time’s the charm, and we washed down some Asahi while we waited for our second-try order of actual chicken to arrive.
We then walked over to the The East National Gardens of the Imperial Palace, the location of the Edo Castle during the Tokagowu Shogunate. The grounds were so beautifully manicured, with the extensive moat system still intact from the Edo Period. It was such a serene oasis of green in the middle of bustling Tokyo. I also got a glimpse of the famous Nijubashi Bridge– the "double bridge" leading to the inner palace grounds, though you can't normally cross it (except on special occasions like the Emperor's birthday!)
The East National Gardens of the Imperial Palace
We headed back to the Okura and grabbed a drink at the rooftop bar before our Omakase reservation. The bar had an amazing view of Tokyo, and we saw a fuzzy Fuji in the distance. It’s wild that you can see Fuij from that far away! Japanese excellent hospitality was on full display when I asked the waiter which of the buildings was Ark Tower, which is where my dad lived when he lived in Japan in the 80s. They gave an approximate answer to my question, and returned 5 minutes later with an iPad set up with a topographical map of what we were looking at so they could provide me with the exact answer. Above and beyond service!
View from Okura's rooftop bar, and a shot of my dad's old apartment!
Omakase Dinner
There were so many places to choose from for Omakase. Justin found Sushi Asaba Nishiazabu , known for its Edomae-style sushi,and asked the concierge at Okura to help us make a reservation. There were 8 seats total. The dinner started on a funny note -- there were four older Japanese people seated at the table. Four other people arrived, and left for reasons beyond our understanding (as we can’t speak Japanese). Eventually the four older people also got up, and were soon replaced by the other four folks. At the very end of the meal when we all warmed up to each other a bit, and those that could speak a little English spoke a bit to us, we asked “what happened?!” Turns out it was just a reservation mix up of some sort.
Day 2: Meiji Shrine, Harajuku, Shibuya, Shinjuku
We spent the next morning at Yoyogi Park, one of Tokyo’s largest parks. Fun fact, it was the Olympic Village for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics before becoming a park in 1967! Connected to Yoyogi Park is the serene Meiji Shrine, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Emperor Meiji was the one who led Japan into modernization, so this shrine is super significant. Walking through the massive torii gates and into the forested grounds felt like entering another world – so peaceful and calming after the city bustle. It's amazing how this tranquil oasis exists right next to the vibrant Harajuku!
We spent several hours shopping in Harajuku and the Shibuya shopping district - This district is internationally famous for Japanese youth culture and fashion. Takeshita Street is legendary – packed with trendy boutiques, quirky shops, and crepe stands, and for me, a “Tanghulu”, or sugar coated strawberries on a stick! I was very focused on shopping and thrifting. There were so many options, but I found the shopping to be a bit overwhelming! So many choices, and a lot of the thrift stores were not tall girl friendly, or they were almost consignment store prices (like $$$$ for vintage chanel)
We then made our way to Shibuya, where the Google Tokyo office is. The real star is the Shibuya Scramble Crossing! It's one of the busiest pedestrian crossings in the world, and experiencing it is a must-do! Thousands of people crossing from all directions at once – it's pure, organized chaos and totally mesmerizing.
We had lunch at Sushi Tokyo Ten which was right by the Google Shibuya office! In retrospect, I wouldn’t recommend two Omakases so close together like we did. Personally, as a reformed picky eater I found two meals in a row of not picking what I had to eat to be a little taxing. A better use of a meal would have been ramen or conveyor belt sushi.
To cap off my Tokyo nights, for dinner we headed to Golden Gai in Shinjuku, This tiny district is a maze of narrow alleys and unbelievably tiny bars. It's survived redevelopment and feels like a hidden gem from Tokyo's past. It used to be a haunt for writers and artists. Some bars only fit a handful of people, and might seem intimidating, but if you find the right spot, you can have such a unique, intimate experience. It's gritty, historic, and fascinating!
For our last day, we took a day trip to Nikko and back. Check out that post here:
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