Vines to Vistas: Trading Rioja for the Ordesa Valley
- aec41594
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
After the lush vineyards and avant-garde curves of Rioja, we traded our wine glasses for hiking boots and headed east toward the Pyrenees. The transition from the rolling plains of wine country to the jagged limestone peaks of the north is dramatic, both in scenery and pace.
A Literary Detour in Pamplona
The drive to Torla takes about three hours, so we broke it up with a stop in Pamplona. I love to choose a novel to read with a setting inspired by the location I’m traveling to, so I had been reading Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises, which takes place in Pamplona and San Sebastian. To be perfectly honest, I was not a fan. The characters are unbearable, and their "grand tour" mostly consists of getting drunk and being miserable in beautiful places.
However, the city itself is far more charming than the character’s novels. We spent the morning walking along the Citadel of Pamplona, a massive 16th-century star-shaped fortress built under King Philip II. It’s one of the best-preserved examples of military architecture in Europe. It was sweltering out, so we found sanctuary at Taberna Vienés in the park. It’s a classic "third place"—that essential social space between home and work. We spent an hour drinking cold sodas cooling down and just people-watching: a group of women in their 60s catching up, a mom juggling a baby, a beer, and an ice cream. The energy was effortlessly relaxed.
For lunch, we had our first real pinxhos (the Basque version of tapas) experience at Vermutería Río. There’s something so satisfying about standing at a crowded counter and ordering as you go. The standout was a simple baguette topped with tuna, tomato, anchovy, and pickled peppers—salty, fresh, and perfect for a hot day.
Entering the Ordesa Valley
The drive into the mountains becomes increasingly winding as you approach Torla-Ordesa. The town is the definition of "picturesque," with its dark stone houses and the 16th-century San Salvador church sitting right in the center, all framed by the massive, looming walls of the mountains.
We stayed at Hotel Abetos, a simple mountain hut-style hotel with views out the window that felt like a green screen. The atmosphere here is trusting; we didn't even have to leave a credit card to hold the room.
After checking in, we walked into town for dinner at Restaurante Pizzería El Taillón. Despite the weather app promising a 0% chance of rain, the sky opened up. We ended up huddled under the awning with a beer, sharing the dry space with other patrons while we waited for our table. Everyone was entertained, cheering on the staff when they came by with a broom stick, knocking the water off the awning to prevent a leak. The memory and the vibe exceeded the food, but it was a great dinner stop.
The Hunter’s Path: Senda de los Cazadores
The next morning, we set out for Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park. During the summer, you can’t drive your own car into the park; instead, you take a shuttle from the Torla town center. It’s efficient, departs every 15 minutes, and leaves navigating the hair-raising mountain turns to the professionals.
At a friend’s suggestion, we skipped the standard valley floor walk and opted for the Senda de los Cazadores (The Hunter's Hike). Geologically, the Pyrenees were formed roughly 65 million years ago when the Iberian plate collided with the Eurasian plate. The Ordesa Valley specifically is a massive glacial canyon, and this hike takes you right along its rim.
It starts with a brutal, steep ascent—gaining nearly 2,100 feet in the first two miles. As you climb, you're rewarded with more and more of glimpses of the Pyrnees
It’s a quad-burner, but the payoff is the Mirador de Calcilarruego.
From there, the trail levels out and meanders through seven miles of high-altitude meadows with constant, unobstructed views of the valley below.
We stopped in a meadow for a lunch of jamón y queso sandwiches we’d packed, which, in that setting, felt like a five-star meal.
The trail eventually descends toward the Cola de Caballo (Horsetail Waterfall). This is where most people hike in and out from the bottom.
We cooled off in the mist of the falls before taking the lower route back. By the time we finished, we had clocked 14 miles. The final three miles of the lower path are a bit monotonous compared to the high-rim views, which only made us more grateful we chose the "hard" route for the first half.
One of the best things about hiking in Spain? The taverns at the national park entrances. We celebrated our 14-mile day with a beer and ice cream at the little hut at the bottom before catching the bus back to Torla.
Mountain Air and Courtyard Dinners
After a quick cappuccino at the local Irish bar and a shower, I discovered the ultimate travel hack: the crisp, dry mountain air is a miracle worker for curly hair.
We spent our final evening in Torla at Restaurante Atalaya, tucked away in a quiet courtyard. I had a fantastic burger, and we just soaked in the casual, alpine vibe of the town.
Torla is everything you want in a mountain basecamp—unpretentious, walkable, and surrounded by some of the most dramatic natural beauty in Europe. If you're a confident driver who doesn't mind a few switchbacks, the journey is more than worth it.
Tips for Trekking the Pyrenees
The Shuttle System: Don't try to beat the system—just take the bus from Torla. It’s cheap, frequent, and much more relaxing than hunting for a parking spot at the trailhead.
Route Selection: If you have the fitness for it, always take the Senda de los Cazadores over the standard valley floor route. The views from the top are what make this a world-class hike.
Weather Realism: In the mountains, "0% chance of rain" is a suggestion, not a fact. Always pack a light rain shell, even if the sun is shining when you leave the hotel.
Footwear: 14 miles is a long day. If you’re doing the Hunter’s Path, you need real hiking boots with ankle support for that initial steep ascent and the rocky descent.
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