Hakone & Mt. Fuji

Hakone & Mount Fuji

My husband and I spent about two weeks in Japan in May 2024, covering Tokyo, Nikko, Hakone/Gora, Kyoto, and Hokkaido. Since there's SO much to do and recommend in each location, I'll break out each post into its own. If you’re looking for some general dos an don’t about traveling to Japan, check out my Tokyo post. If you’re looking for an easy day trip from Tokyo, check out my post on Nikko!

P.s. heading to Japan in May and curious what to wear? Check out what I packed in my suitcase for two weeks in Japan!

After a few action-packed days in Tokyo (including an awesome day trip to soak in the peaceful vibes of Nikko), we headed off to our next stop on our 13-day adventure: Hakone.

We were pumped for this part of the trip, but leaving the Okura Hotel was a bit bittersweet since we had such a great time there. The staff was amazing right up to the end, helping us use this cool and convenient service in Japan where you can send your bags ahead to your next hotel. This was a lifesaver since we were only spending one night in Hakone and the trip involved a bunch of transfers that would have been a pain with all our stuff. We were relieved to only have what we needed for the night on our backs in Hakone. Stopping in Hakone between Tokyo and Kyoto was a perfect move—not only was it on the way, but the chill, nature-focused vibe was a great way to break up two of Japan's biggest cities.

Tokyo to Hakone: It's about the journey

When I first checked out the route on Google Maps, I couldn't believe how many transfers there were (from a bullet train to an old-school train, then another old-school train, onto a vertical ropeway, and finally a gondola…), but getting to Hakone rom Tokyo is totally one of those "the journey is the destination" kind of deals. We hopped on the iconic Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Odawara station using the JR pass (our ride was just 33 minutes, but there are ones that take almost two hours, so pick carefully!). Of course, we grabbed some snacks like katsu sando and tuna rolls at the station and enjoyed them on the bullet train, which made the trip even more fun and intentional.

Snacks on the bullet train!

Then, we switched to the ‘romance car’ from Odawara to Hakone Yumoto. The train itself is straight out of another era, contributing to the romantic vibes. After that, we caught another train, a switchback style one called the Hakone Tozan railway, to Gora where we were staying, zigzagging up the mountains.

Arriving in Gora

Hakone is basically the hot spring capital of Japan. Ever since the Meiji period (1868-1912), Gora has been the go-to spot for folks looking to unwind in this stunning area. We stayed at the Gora Kansuiro hotel which is a traditional Japanese Ryokan. They gave us traditional robes to wear around, which we sported to dinner uthentic kaiseki ryori (Japanese multi-course cuisine), seated on the floor as a traditional Japanese meal. Both dinner and breakfast were included in our stay.

The ryokan features both private and public gendered onsens, with water straight from the source, all nestled in a gorgeous Japanese garden. Before dinner, we enjoyed the separate male and female onsens nestled in nature. and after dinner, we enjoyed the private, additional, small square onsen in our room, which we could use together. The hot water from the onsens made me PASS OUT - I slept better than I had all trip, even though I slept on the floor! Staying in a ryokan like this is one of those cultural experiences you just can’t miss. Seriously, add it to your bucket list!

Gora Kansuiro is also a three-minute walk from Gora Station on the Hakone Tozan Railway. You can’t see Mount Fuji from Gora, but if you continue on another quick uphill cable car to Souzan, to a “ropeway” - basically a gondola, you will see Fuji. We highly recommend getting the Hakone Ropeway pass, as it opens up a world of breathtaking vistas and unforgettable experiences. The journey up the ropeway is nothing short of spectacular, offering panoramic views as you ascend through the lush landscape. As you rise higher, the scenery transforms dramatically, and eventually, you reach a point where a clearing appears, revealing the majestic silhouette of Mount Fuji against the sky. My jaw dropped at the sight - it’s an experience I will never forget, filled with awe and wonder at her beauty.

Whether you’re continuing all the way down to Lake Ashi or choosing to come back the other way, you will switch gondolas at Owakudani, known as the "Great Boiling Valley." This volcanic valley, which was formed approximately 3,000 years ago, is full of active sulfur vents and steaming hot springs, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. The air is permeated with a strong, distinct smell of sulfur, which adds to the adventure and excitement of the visit across all your senses. While you’re there, don’t miss the opportunity to try the famous black eggs, or kuro-tamago, that are cooked in the natural hot springs. According to local legend, eating one of these uniquely prepared eggs is said to add seven years to your life! This area was the best photo spot, providing perfect views of Mt. Fuji rising majestically behind us

Continuing our journey back on the gondola, we eventually descended to Lake Ashi. The lake is not only a beautiful sight but also offers the unique experience of taking themed pirate ships that ferry passengers across the water to the other side, adding a whimsical touch to the adventure. On our first trip on the gondola, we were taking a round trip journey back up the gondola to Gora and found ourself on the last ride of the evening before it closed; our car was completely empty, allowing us to enjoy the stunning views in solitude, resulting in some epic selfies.

The next day we repeated the steps starting from the Hakone Ropeway, and it was an even clearer view of Fuji! I think the view tends to be a bit clearer in the morning. Once we transferred to the next gondola and got to the bottom of the Lake Ashi, we took the pirate ship across Lake Ashi Pleasure Boat Moto-hakone Port . Lake Ashi is a crater lake formed about 3000 years ago by volcanic activity. It offers iconic views of Mount Fuji with the torii gate of Hakone Shrine in the foreground. The lake historically served as a checkpoint on the Tokaido Road, and today, taking a cruise from a port like Moto-hakone is the perfect way to soak in the scenery and relax. We took a beautiful scenic walk - and even passed a wedding ceremony,  to the bus stop which brought us back to Hakone Yumoto train station.  

We transferred back to Odawara and made our way to Kyoto. We loved doing the trip around Hakone in a different way, getting to see different views of Fuji and the mountainous and natural area.